Thank you!

171 Labs rehomed in 2010

52 Labs rehomed since 1 Jan 2011

We invite you to come and visit Labrador Rescue at

http://www.rescuealabrador.com/

22 May 2010

An Unusual Thank You!

We all loved this unusual thank you message, it was very well timed and much appreciated :-)!!!


Hi all at labrescue

This is a bit of a strange email i am writing to say thank you. we recently adopted our lovely B from pet rescue which we found through your website. I had fully intended to adopt a lab from you guys but when all  of us saw B on the website she was meant to be. So thank you. It was your website that convinced me that i wanted to do the right thing rather than have a puppy and certainly not to have a litter of pups. I don't think i would ever buy another puppy again, as adopting means you can choose the perfect dog for you. hopefully we can foster some puppies some day so that the kids get to have the experience, we will let you know. So thank you it's a strange thank you but i just wanted you to know. I love your site and recommend it and B is such a great advertisement for doggy adoption.


Thanks and B is so appreciative.


11 yo Khan
 is looking for a loving home to spend his twilight years with


17 May 2010

Tobias is settling in well

Here's a lovely update on Tobias who joined his new home on Sunday - we're looking forward to many more happy stories and cute photos :-)


Tobias is happily asleep in the basket next to Basil and the 2 have been chasing each other around the house and garden having a ball which is great. He is such a lovely dog and A has obviously done a lot with him so please thank her. He walked well on the lead this afternoon and as all Labs do ate very well !!!!!


16 May 2010

Arousal - The Good and the Bad

This is one of many dog ownership tips I'd like to share with you under the name 'Paws for Thought' written by a friend at work, posted here with her permission. Please note that these posts are written by a dog lover learning more every day and happy to share. They are intended to give you options and ideas to think about. They do not replace the help of a professional (such as a vet, behaviourist, trainer or lawyer). Posts can be shared with others as long as you make sure that any references contained within the post remain with the post and please do not take chunks out of context. Preference is definitely for the whole post to be shared rather than pieces.

Arousal is a term you hear and read about quite a lot in dog training – from how to training books to popular TV shows. You hear it but you probably don’t really understand just how important it is. A certain level of arousal is needed for play, mental stimulation, training and learning but if it goes beyond a certain level then arousal gets to a level where a dog just can’t think – it can’t learn – it can only react. This is not something you want to see in dog to dog or dog to people interactions and it certainly isn’t something you want to see in a training session.

So what is arousal?

The term is often used to describe a state of high energy – energy that might be caused by excitement through play, fear, anger or by stress. High arousal levels (regardless of cause) appear very closely linked to aggression so it really helps to be able to predict, identify and manage increasing arousal levels.

The more activity that there is going on in any environment the higher the arousal level will be.

Play can also lead to escalating arousal levels – in play there is a certain joyful abandon and shedding of inhibitions. Play is exciting – that’s why it’s so much fun. But all this can lead to high levels of arousal where the dog loses self control – and in this they are no different than people at a sports match or kids in a playgroup.

What are the signs of high arousal?

Signs of high arousal include:
·         Dilated pupils
·         Excessive panting
·         Higher respiration rates
·         Higher blink rates
·         Higher tongue flick rates
·         Half moon eyes
·         High pitched repetitive barking or whining
·         Piloerection (hackles raised)
·         Flared whiskers
·         Penis crowning
·         Frenetic behaviour
·         Stiff body language
·         Hyper or nervous behaviour such as pacing or excessive jumping.

Other signs you will commonly see are the complete lack of ability to concentrate and what might seem to be ‘selective deafness’.

This is not a time to ask your dog to perform behaviours (even ones they know really well) and particularly not calling them to you unless you are prepared for a very low probability that they will respond. These are not something your dog is choosing to do to drive you nuts. If it happens to your dog you need to manage the situation as best you can and then think about what happened and how to avoid getting/letting your dog to that level again.

How do you avoid it?

To avoid over arousal in your dog you firstly need to learn more about dog body language and what to look for as arousal builds.

One of the best tips in play (dog to dog or dog to human) is to not let play go on uninterrupted for long periods. Frequently interrupt by asking your dog to do something to show that they are still in control of their actions and that you are in control of them. You might ask for a sit or for your dog to give you the toy and wait for permission to continue playing.

Being able to calm down your dog in an aroused situation is a key skill all dog owners should work on. You never know when you might need to rely on it to get you and your dog out of a sticky situation.

Dr Ian Dunbar has some neat tips on teaching what he calls ‘jazz up’ and ‘settle down’ to adolescents and adult dogs. Check them out at:

http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/jazz-and-settle-down

http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/jazz-and-settle-down


http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/jazz-settle-down-%E2%80%93-sirius-adult-dog-training

http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/more-jazz-settle%E2%80%93-sirius-adult-dog-training

He also thinks that they should be the first lesson taught in training classes – as it is a key reason many people come to classes in the first place (to get some level of control in aroused situations) and because it then gives people a strategy to use when new people and dogs and other distractions interrupt classes.

I checked for other useful links for training these behaviours and unfortunately came up blank.

References
·         Barbara Handelman – Canine Behaviour. A Photo Illustrated Handbook

·         Karen B. London & Patricia B. McConnell – Play Together, Stay Together. Happy and Healthy Play Between People and Dogs

·         Pat Miller – Play With Your Dog

·         Robin Bennett – Off-Leash Dog Play. A Complete Guide to Safety and Fun


15 May 2010

Baby Time!

Jett's foster carer mum suffered appendicitis last Sunday and had to have an emergency caesar as well. Their cute little baby boy arrived 6 weeks early and will be in NICU for about 4 weeks. Both mum and bub are recovering well after a rocky start. Gorgeous Jett doesn't know what has turned his life upside down! Thankfully another foster carer can take him in while we shuffle dogs around to cater for the change :-). As you can see Jett's foster family love to play dress-ups with him. I'd love to see him in a baby bonnet now ;-)!!!

Yoda

Ready for work



05 May 2010

Thank you for the Growl

This is one of many dog ownership tips I'd like to share with you under the name 'Paws for Thought' written by a friend at work, posted here with her permission. Please note that these posts are written by a dog lover learning more every day and happy to share. They are intended to give you options and ideas to think about. They do not replace the help of a professional (such as a vet, behaviourist, trainer or lawyer). Posts can be shared with others as long as you make sure that any references contained within the post remain with the post and please do not take chunks out of context. Preference is definitely for the whole post to be shared rather than pieces.


It's okay to feel taken aback when a dog, particularly your dog, growls at you or a child. But please don't punish the dog for the warning instead thank them.

A growl is a warning from your dog that they are not comfortable - fearful, threatened or aggressive. It's saying back off I'm not happy with this situation. It's a critical part of the behaviours that have been built into dogs to try and keep social harmony and stop fights that could kill or maim.

It's a warning - an important one to heed and do something about. But what? Well firstly remove the tension from the situation by getting out of the immediate situation before someone does get bitten. Now think about what was happening that your dog was so uncomfortable about. It might be something obvious that he wasn't happy about like being cornered under the bed with a tissue with no escape route and an irate human trying to reclaim the treasure (what is it with dogs and tissues and how important they become to humans when dogs have them?). It could also be something less obvious. 

Here's an analogy thanks to Robyn Hood from the TTouch world that might help:  Think of a cauldron of water sitting on top of a bunch of candles of different sizes. When the water boils over a bite is far more likely to happen.  Now let's take one dog's candles. One candle (a medium size one) is a fear of children. Another candle is a dislike of strangers (a large candle).  Another is loud noises and yet another smaller candle is being uncomfortable when people are around his food bow. Now on a particular day when the dog is not feeling all that happy (yes they have bad days too) you have visitors over and a child is running around the house. The child is a stranger to the dog and making lots of noise as she plays.  When the child enters the laundry where the dog is eating his meal the dog growls at the child. Lot's of candles here that you need to identify and work on reducing so that the incident doesn't recur. You also might need to have better management skills in the meantime (or perhaps for life).

Take the emotion (the scare, the humiliation, the disbelief) out of the situation and consider what caused the growl and how to deal with the issues so that the dog doesn't feel so threatened by the situation.

But whatever you do don't punish the dog for the growl. Why not? Well as already mentioned the growl is part of an escalating set of behaviours on the way to a bite or multiple bites and dogs are smart at figuring out what behaviours work and which ones don't.

If you punish the growl out of the dog there goes a major warning system - next time the leap may be from dog body language that you and others don't recognise to a full on bite - and no one wants to go there.

More on some of those more subtle messages in later posts. And I am not advocating doing nothing about growls but rather thanking your dog for giving you the warning and then coming up with a plan (perhaps with professional help) to work through the issues that contributed to the situation so that confrontation and bites can be avoided.

For more information check out the following as a start:

- Off-Leash Dog Play. A Complete Guide to Safety and Fun by Robin Bennet and Susan Briggs

- http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/fearful-growling

- http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/why-growl-good

http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/obey-thy-dog

 

02 May 2010

A quick word from Mocchy

Hello

Just a quick word from Mocchy.

Boy have I hit the jackpot. Here I am taking my best mate for ride on his ski.

My days are filled with swimming, running through parks then its down to the local café for a quick bite and chat ( where I'm a bit of a celebrity)

I'm groomed and cuddled constantly. The meals are yummy and healthy.

Met the local vet, seems like a pretty nice fellow, had me all better in no time….. Thanks Benny & the Pets.

Well off for a few laps before I have a snooze on my new sheep skin. Thanks again to all the guys at Lab rescue

Luv Moccha



Hey Moccha

We are THRILLED that you are soooooooooooooooo happy - thanks so much for keeping us up to date and we will add your wonderful story to our happy Endings page.

How fantastic you lucky dog!!!

Cheers

Lab Rescue Gang


Play or Warming Up for a Fight

This is one of many dog ownership tips I'd like to share with you under the name 'Paws for Thought' written by a friend at work, posted here with her permission. Please note that these posts are written by a dog lover learning more every day and happy to share. They are intended to give you options and ideas to think about. They do not replace the help of a professional (such as a vet, behaviourist, trainer or lawyer). Posts can be shared with others as long as you make sure that any references contained within the post remain with the post and please do not take chunks out of context. Preference is definitely for the whole post to be shared rather than pieces.


Patricia B. McConnell has written an article called 'The Pause That Refreshes.  Play or Warming Up for a Fight - How to Tell the Difference' in the Nov 09-Jan 10 Edition of 'The Bark.  Dog is my Co-Pilot'  magazine.  I thought I'd share some of the things she has to say. If you want to read the full article then this edition is out in some newsagents right now for around $10.

About play

* In play you see many behaviours that replicatee those seen in fights - and many people find this really concerning.

* Scientists are having a hard time defining 'play' because it contains so many components of fighting, predation and reproduction and that doesn't leave much to distinguish play from these other activities.

* One scientist, Mark Bekoff defines play as 'all motor activity that appear purposeless, with motor patterns from other contexts modified and altered..' 

* There are however observable behaviours that distinguish healthy play from impending trouble.

What do you generally see in play?

* Behaviours often exaggerated (think of pups leaping and pouncing).

* Stopping and starting rather than continuing on with a behaviour (shaking a toy as though killing it but then not going on to eat it - hopefully).

* Lateral (sideways) direction of movement rather than forward.

* A tremendous amount of 'self handicapping'.

This is perhaps the most critical aspect of healthy play and it occurs when a stronger or faster dog adjusts their play to a lower level so that they don't use their full strength against the other dog (or child or human). Think of the large dog lying down (or even on their side) to play with a puppy or smaller dog.  Self handicapping is vital if you have teeth - imagine what would happen if dogs played with the full strength of their teeth and jaws (then again don't).

Self handicapping takes a certain amount of maturity.  For young pups and the inexperienced (and of course teenagers) the excitement and release of rules of behaviour in play can quickly cause the level of arousal (excitement) to scale up quickly and this is what often leads to danger.

* The next time you're watching two dogs play (it's easier with just two) keep an eye out (or video and rewatch) for the following:

- How many times were 'bites' delivered using a soft mouth?

- How many times did the bigger or stronger dog lie down and let the smaller one jump on them?

- I would add: How many times did roles swap?  (ie the dogs take turns being chased or rolling or whatever)

* What you want to watch for is for when self-handicapping starts to break down (often due to level of arousal).

How do you tell when things are heading towards a fight or aggression?

* The key question you should be asking is not 'Is this bothering me? ' but rather 'Is this bothering either of the dogs?'

* Watch the dogs and consider:

- Was that last 'play bite' a bit too hard or too long?

- Did the bigger dog body slam the other in a way that hurt or might cause injury?

- Do they keep willingly engaging with each other or is one dog looking for an out (tree to hide behind, exit from the space etc)?

- Do you see lots of 'play bows' (these behaviours are thought to mean that everything that follows is just in fun and not to be taken seriously)?

- Do you see lots of time outs where both dogs stop moving? Something like move, stop, move, stop, move with the pauses lasting only seconds when dog's first meet and then becoming longer as they become more comfortable.

- Are the dog's vocalisations changing - becoming rapid, higher or lower?

- Are their actions becoming more intense, jerkier and less self-handicapped?

My advice would be:

* Interrupt any play session (between dogs or people) regularly to check that everyone is still under control.  You can do this by asking your dog to do something like sit or come to you. If they comply then they are still showing self control and should be immediately released back to play (which in itself becomes a major reward for listening to you and doing what you ask).  Interrupt quite quickly and before things escalate to start with and then as you get to know the level of your dog's arousal and how much self control they have you can extend the time. 

* If at any stage you get that feeling in the gut, uneasy sense or the hair on the back of your head stands up act immediately and remove your dog from the situation.  Reassess what was happening and next time cut it off before this level.

More posts on play and body language will follow throughout the year.

For more information on Patricia McConnell, her books and advice on dog behaviour and training check out
http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/ and http://www.theotherendoftheleash.com/